Tuberous Begonia

Begonia x tuberhybrida


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Pink Tuberous Begonia Blossoms
Original photo from WikiMedia Commons
Most tuberous begonias are the result of complex cross breeding with numerous parent lines. They are known for their huge, colorful flowers, many of which are fully double, creating a poofy pom-pom look. They are typically treated as annuals and used extensively in hanging baskets and window boxes due to their ease in maintenance. They are NOT cold hardy and can really only be treated as true perennials in climates warmer than USDA Hardiness Zones 9, 10 or warmer.

An often over-looked feature of tuberous begonias is actually the tuber itself! The tubers can easily be brought indoors and over-wintered just like canna, calla, gladiola, and dahlia bulbs.

Storing Tuberous Begonias

In warm climates (warm=sub-tropical/tropical) tuberous begonias will naturally go dormant as daylight shortens in November, sprouting again in the spring. In the northern temperate climates, tuberous begonias will go into a forced dormancy with the first light frost that destroys the foliage. As long as the tuber itself doesn't freeze, the plant is still alive even though the greenery above the soil looks dead.

At this point the tubers should be dug up and examined for any rot or disease. Any bad spot can be carved out with a sharp knife and the would dusted with a garden grade fungicide. The tubers should then be allowed to dry until the remaining stem sections seperate from the tuber easily. The tubers are now ready for storage.

Put each tuber into a paper bag (one per bag to limit the spread of disease and rot.) Place the bags in a cardboard box and store the box in a cool dark location for the winter. Cool = just cooler than room temperature, NOT COLD. A cuboard in an unfinished basement is ideal.

After all danger of frost is past in spring (May 15 in Minnesota) the tubers can be replanted just like any other bulb.

On a side note, tuberous begonias in Minnesota are often sold as hanging baskets. After the first frost in fall, I have had success by simply snapping off the old growth, cleaning the top of the soil of dead leaves and debris, and letting the entire hanging basket dry out for storage in the winter. In the spring, simply soak the entire hanging basket for an hour, add some new slow-release fertilizer, and the plant pops back up within a couple weeks. Check out this page for more notes on hanging basket care and planting, Creating and Maintaining Hanging Baskets.

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